Pompeii in Half a Day
“Look at the walls of Pompeii. That’s what got the internet started”
Getting to and around Pompeii usually results in low to high grade travel drama. My first family trip to Pompeii was an “unmitigated disaster,” in my father’s words. He has still not recovered from the journey.
It involved a wild ride on a bus, a guide who spent an inordinate amount of time pointing out phallic symbols (she called them PAY-nis) and an overcrowded group that jockeyed for primacy over tumbling ancient ruins. Dad eventually walked away from the amoeba/ group and got himself a granita. That was the best part of a day we still don’t discuss, largely thanks to the byzantine organizational tactics of our local tour operator (Hint: don’t buy Pompeii experiences on Viator!)
This was over ten years ago and fortunately, after hosting many visitors to Naples, I have mastered the Pompeii day. Whether you are on a budget or looking to splurge, below is the perfect template to explore the ancient ruins at Pompeii and its surroundings in one day.
Planning Your Day in Pompeii
It is important to arrive right at 9AM when the entrance gates open. The archeological site gets crowded in the high season. It also gets REALLY hot. If you arrive at 9AM, you can buy your tickets at the entrance with little risk of lines.
If you wish, you can also buy tickets from an authorized ticket agent online here. You can save the ticket to your smartphone and show at the entrance. The cost of one admission ticket in €16 in person and €18 online.
Once you arrive in Pompeii you need a game plan — otherwise you will stare at a pile of rocks and ruins that will mean little to you without historic context. There will be many guides attempting to hawk their services at the entrance to the ruins. Do not use their services.
Often these local guides only accept cash and do not declare their earnings. This contributes to the local black market. If you really want a guide, pre-purchase an audio guide with your online ticket here or contact Sauced & Found to arrange a private guide.
Top Sites in Pompeii
Before your trip, I suggest reading Mary Beard’s amazing book, Pompeii: The Life of a Roman Town. We suggest the itinerary below which will take about two hours. You can also follow it with our map here
1) Temple of Apollo & Pompeii Forum
The forum was the center of civic and religious life in Pompeii prior to the 79AD eruption. From here you enjoy spectacular views of towering Vesuvius. The forum was rectangular in shape with a basilica, built between 120 and 130 BC at the southern end. It contained a "tabularium,” the official collection of local laws, a voting hall, a town hall and a tribunal. Also built around 120 BC, the temple of Apollo, at the Northern side is one of the oldest and most important religious sites in Pompeii.
2) House of the Tragic Poet
Discovered in 1824 by archaeologist, Antonio Bonucci, the House of the Tragic poet contains the most ornate frescoes and mosaics in all of what remains of Pompeii. Strangely, the house itself is not grand in size, leading many to speculate about the lives of its owners. Why such a grandly ornate interior in such a relatively small villa?
3) House of the Faun
Named for the bronze dancing faun statue at the villa’s atrium, this was one of the largest and most impressive villas in Pompeii. It was clearly an aristocratic residence, built around 80 BC. It sustained earthquake damage in 62BC prior to the eventual volcanic eruption in 79AD.
4) House of Vetti
Two successful former slaves, Aulus and Augustalis Vettius built this grand residence. It features a large array of incredibly well preserved frescoes, one depicting his Cretan King Minos's wife, Pasiphae, and the architect Daedalus, whom Pasiphae ordered to construct an elaborate wooden cow costume so she could sleep with her husbands treasured bull.
5) Temple of Isis
The Temple of Isis was one of the first sites discovered by archeologist at Pompeii’s initial excavation in 1764. Dedicated to the Egyptian goddess Isis, this is actually the second temple built in her honor at Pompeii. The first, at the same site, was destroyed during the 62 AD earthquake. Devotees of Isis in Pompeii mainly included women and slaves seeking freedom, as Isis was seen as a goddess of fate and salvation.
6) Stabian Baths
Ancient Roman inhabitants of Pompeii considered the volcanic waters of Pompeii highly therapeutic. The baths included pools of varying temperatures from cold, tepid to piping hot. A piping system in the walls and double floors of the baths circulated hot air coming from mobile braziers. The baths included separate men’s and women’s quarters, a feature typical of that time.
7) Amphitheater
The oldest surviving Roman amphitheater in Italy, the amphitheater at Pompeii was the first of its kind built out of stone in 70BC. The second was the Colosseum in Rome. A prior wooden structure stood in its place. The design employed modern crowd control technologies and even included public washrooms in the adjacentpalestra (gym).
Transportation
Option 1: Take the Circumvesuviana Train from Naples Central Station (Garibaldi) in the direction of Sorrento, getting off at Pompei Scavi - Villa dei Misteri. Or if coming from Sorrento, take the train towards Naples, getting off at Pompei Scavi - Villa dei Misteri. The cost is €2,80 each way.
Option 2: This is the express train that goes directly from Naples to Pompeii and takes A LOT less time than the Vesuviana. Take the Campania Express Train from Naples Central Station towards Sorrento and getting off at Pompei Scavi - Villa dei Misteri. Or if coming from Sorrento, take the train towards Naples, getting off at Pompei Scavi - Villa dei Misteri. The cost is €10,00 each way.
Option 3: Hire a private coach. Chances are you have an aggressive day of site seeing planned. You likely won’t just visit Pompeii. You may also want to visit the top of Vesuvius, stop for lunch and even visit Herculaneum all in the same day. If that is the case, we highly suggest hiring a private transfer. Contact our booking team here to arrange. A round trip private transfer to and from Pompeii for two to four people starts at €100,00.
Dining
Eating at Pompeii is no easy task. Most the of the restaurants around the site are terrible tourist traps. You are allowed to bring a picnic lunch into Pompeii so this is an affordable option. Stop by a salumeria and make your own sandwich for about €2,50. You can also bring a bottle of wine (get one with a twist top). Just be sure to pick up your trash. If you prefer to eat out. We suggest the following:
Garum
Named for the fermented fish sauce that Pompeii famously exported throughout the world, this restaurant served elegant local fare in a refined setting. The spaghetti alla garum, which uses the modern equivalent of the ancient fish sauce, known as colatura, is a house specialty. Prices are quite affordable, averaging €10 per pasta dish.
Caupona
Capuona serves dishes according to the ancient recipes of Pompeii. The restaurant is in the courtyard of an old Pompeii style villa, making the ideal location for a tranquil lunch.
Cantina del Vesuvio
The wines of Vesuvius, known as Lacryma Christi or Christ’s tears, are famous. Take a short detour to visit the Cantina del Vesuvio. You will enjoy a short vineyard visit followed by a pre-fixe lunch and wine tasting.
Get ready for an amazingly tranquil half day at Pompeii! And if you have any questions before hand, let us know!
